Formentera!
Please handle with care
Writing about the most exquisite experiences I’ve had in my life brings up a moral conundrum. I want to share them with the world, I do - there is nothing more satisfying to me than someone following my advice and coming back to say my recommendations were on point. I believe that good taste elevates one’s life, and if I can gently nudge just one person towards a higher-quality experience, then I’m happy.
On the other hand, so many of the hidden gems I’ve discovered over the years were special because of exactly that: they were hidden. If you hadn’t already noticed, I place ludicrously high value on peace and quiet, and generally run away from crowds. (My husband jokingly said to me, just a few days ago: “You’re not what we, in the biz, call a ‘people person’”. Understatement of the century. I’m close to 100% “I” - introvert - on the Myers-Briggs scale.)
I worry about the places I like going viral (it wouldn’t be my doing, of course, but am I not contributing?). I still treat the word “viral” as literally as possible: indicative of an infectious disease I need to be vaccinated against. When I come across Instagram reels showcasing a “viral recipe” or “viral coffee shop” or “viral burger spot” I make a mental note to cross it off my list. I have zero interest in going places because the world somehow decided to become obsessed with it. I have all the interest in going places that only people with discerning taste frequent.
And this is the crux of it all: my recommendations are not meant for everyone. They are targeted towards an audience who will know how to appreciate the tiny details of the experience, the love and care that is poured into the moment. My nightmare scenario would be to unleash crowds of indiscriminate philistines onto my most-loved spots around the world, only for them to totally destroy the experience all the while complaining that “it’s nothing special”.
I’m not sure what the solution is; I only hope that I will do a good enough job writing about these places I love that it will fall into the right ears and sound like a bunch of boring noise to everyone else.
Please forgive my prevarications. I feel particularly protective of today’s topic, because it is such a diamond in the rough. A place that is enormously precious to me: Formentera.
Formentera is an Italian island. It is an Italian island located in, and owned by, Spain. I’m serious: you will hear more Italian spoken there than either Spanish or Catalan, and you will certainly consume more pasta and pizza than pan con tomate or jamón. One of Formentera’s advantages is its lack of airport; most tourists are discouraged by the required ferry ride from Ibiza (which takes all of thirty minutes…). But Italians must love a ferry ride, because they have decidedly claimed the island as their own. You will struggle to see any other kind of tourist in Formentera. Even the restaurants and shops are all Italian-owned.
This suits me just fine as (1) I love Italian food, (2) though I don’t speak it, I can understand Italian perfectly well, and (3) Italians have taste and therefore make for very good tourists. This last point is perhaps the most important one. (Please see: my prevarications).
The vibes
Italian, we’ve already established that. But also: sort of countryside luxury hippie-ish, meaning yoga and meditation with a side of lobster. Does this make any sense? Take Joshua Tree, fill it with Italians, and move it to the coast. Now can you picture it?
The island is almost completely flat, with the exception of the eastern tip of the island, named Pilar de la Mola. Things get quite steep over there, and you can see lovely views from the Far de la Mola (the lighthouse). The climate is significantly drier than in Menorca and the vegetation sparser. More cactus than lemon tree.
While in Formentera, your job is beach. You can try to invent other fake activities, like strolling through the five streets that make up the main town (San Francesc Xavier) or checking out the salt marsh at Estany Pudent, but you’d only be fooling yourself. There is only one task to be accomplished every day, and that is to go to the beach.
Where to stay
Sadly, our preferred hotel on the island closed down recently and was acquired by a different hospitality group. This was Casa Pacha; an offshoot of Ibiza’s Pacha group (though the atmosphere was the opposite of clubby: chilled out and shabby chic). It has now been rebranded into Hannah Formentera, which I have not tried personally and therefore cannot vouch for. However, it is worth stating that the property’s location is unbeatable: right on Platja es Arenals, once of the best on the island.
This summer we will be trying out Teranka, which comes highly recommended by many travel agents. I will report back.
Hotel Gecko, owned by the same group that operates Torralbenc in Menorca, fell a little short for us. While the location is lovely (very quiet, facing the Migjorn beach, and a very short drive away from the main town), the rooms were on the smaller side and breakfast was uninspiring. On the plus side, it is one of the few hotels on the island to feature a swimming pool (a very large one at that).
For a simpler (and cheaper!) option, I recommend the lovely Can Tres. This is likely the best spot to experience that “lobster hippie” vibe I described. The rooms are very rustic, but in a chic way. The property is in the middle of nowhere, but within walking distance of Platja de Migjorn.
There is also an option in town: the Hotel Es Mares. I have not tried this one, but it looks nice?
The best beaches
Ses Illetes - The only spot that, in peak season (June-August) requires a bit of advance planning. Parking spots are limited, and you will be turned away at the entrance as soon as they are full. In the summer, this happens at around 9:30am. Any other time of year, you can probably show up past 10am and still roll in safely. Our Italian friends, unsurprisingly, favor taking Vespas to the beach; this gives them a significant advantage. Anyway, once you make it to Ses Illetes you will think you have been magically transported to the Caribbean. The color of the water is somewhere between electric blue and bottle green. The sand is molto bianco. If you get there early enough, you will be able to rent beach chairs and an umbrella for the day, which will make your job (beach) a lot more pleasant.
Platja de Llevant - Located on the other side of the dune from Ses Illetes (therefore: same parking admonitions apply), Platja de Llevant is slightly less frequented. It is a bit windier, and there are fewer beach chairs, but it is an equally lovely stretch of sand.
Platja es Arenals - This is usually our daily beach. Frankly, you could just avoid all other beaches and head to this one every day and have a perfectly pleasant holiday. We used to have lunch at Casa Pacha (until it closed down, as mentioned above); their grilled fish with a side of grilled pineapple was out of this world. I am curious to see whether the Hannah Formentera’s restaurant will be able to compete.
Cala Saona - The setting of this beach - between cliffs - is spectacular. There is also more snorkeling to be done in this cove, due to the rocky formations jutting out of these cliffs. It is a shorter stretch of sand than all of the other beaches mentioned here, so it may give you the impression of being more crowded, but the swimming is excellent.
Platja des Pujols - A more family-oriented option, without sacrificing on the quality of the water and of the sand. This beach features quite a few lunch options, including a beach shack churning out perfectly refreshing Italian-style salads (lettuce, tomato, corn, onions, tuna, maybe some mozzarella - this is the classic salad you will see everywhere in Italy).
While going on a boat ride is certainly an optional activity, given the accessibility of beaches, it can still be a fun way to spend the day. In particular you will get to see some of the grottos carved into the rocks.
Where to eat
We have a set of 4-5 favorite restaurants on the island, that we put on rotation. If you like variety and abundance of options, Formentera is not for you: you will eat Italian for every meal, and likely go back to the same spots over and over again. This is part of the charm.
Macondo - This is always our first dinner. Macondo is a pizzeria with a huge outdoor seating area - but don’t be fooled, you MUST make a reservation. The amenities are quite basic, but the pizza is delicious.
Can Carlos - Probably the most upscale restaurant in Formentera; be warned it is not particularly cheap. They earn every penny through the incredible dishes they prepare: fresh, creative, delightful. I have never had a bad meal there. Set in a large candle lit garden, the atmosphere is romantic and sophisticated. Make sure to order the grilled lobster (ridiculously expensive but one of the tastiest things you’ll ever have) as well as any of their pasta dishes. Their desserts are also worth a try. They have a smaller sister restaurant in La Savina (the port town in the north) called Can Carlitos, which I have never tried.
Ca Na Pepa - A more casual option, but equally delicious. This restaurant focuses on the Italian classics: spaghetti alle vongole, fusilloni con pesto, grilled fish. The experience is a thousand times more pleasant if you snag a table in the front courtyard, so make sure to request this when booking. For some reason, the whole staff is decked out in Deux Ex Machina from head to toe… why? That remains one of life’s great mysteries.
El Gioviale - The trick to enjoying this place is to stay focused on the pasta dishes. Stray from this part of the menu at your own risk and peril. Their Roman pastas are particularly good (carbonara, gricia, amatriciana, cacio e pepe). The rest of the food is questionable at best.
Beso Beach - Most people go to Beso Beach to party (it is the only spot on the island that will feel Ibiza-esque: DJ set, bottle service, the works). I just go for the food, because it is simply fantastic (and for once, Spanish!). The little beach shop next to the restaurant is also fun, for bathing suits, coverups, and hats. Booking is imperative.
Blat Picat - For breakfast or a light lunch, this place is a good go-to. They serve mostly tostadas, sandwiches, and smoothies - mostly vegan but some carnivore options as well.
La Mukkeria - I omitted an important piece of information earlier, when I declared that your only job in Formentera was beach. There is one more mission you will need to sign up to, and that is: to visit La Mukkeria gelateria (affectionately known, in our household, as “The Mook”) every. single. day. Obviously this place is owned and operated by - you guessed it - Italians, so the quality of the gelato is top-notch. The range of flavors is impressive, and you will quickly become addicted.
LadaCrem and Geckolateria are also solid gelato options, but nothing comes close to The Mook!
Where to shop
If you happen to have let your spouse convince you to check luggage, and said luggage gets stuck in Paris, and then proceeds to take a full 5 days to make its way to you in Formentera, you will need to go shopping. (This is a fictitious scenario. Any resemblance to actual events or locales is entirely coincidental.)
For swimwear, we like Dossae. For beach coverups, the prettiest ones will be at the Beso Beach store (mentioned in the “Where to Eat” section). If you’re fully embracing your inner hippie, head to Full Moon. For beach sandals, Be Beach Havaianas has a massive selection of, well, Havaianas. For more elevated attire - linen dresses and pants, cute shirts - I love going to Nuëet. Muy also has a great selection (their men’s t-shirts are unbeatable). For more menswear, as well as great beach totes, go to Koi. Gerry St Tropez makes great linen and chambray shirts, if you can stand the arrogant service.
‘m hoping to head to Formentera for the first time end of July! I’m so confused about whether you need a car?! I looked at Can Tres but the location looks a little removed…but as you say, good reviews and most affordable on the island? x
C'est fou parce qu'en 2001 quand j'y suis allée, tu pouvais au mois d'août te rendre à Ses Illetes en plein après-midi... En tout cas ton article m'a donné envie d'y retourner !